I have always believed – and I still believe it, even if less fiercely – that the promotion of a wine producing region is also the promotion of its specific DOC.
In order to obtain a DOC certification, a wine has to observe precise rules that are about what you can do and what you can’t do in the vineyard and int he winery. The registration of a wine in the DOC is not compulsory and the Consortium of every DOC is composed of all the wineries that have registered their wines.
Given the above, since my winery was born, I immediately adhered to the Consortium (Consorzio Tutela Vini Gambellara DOC), I have always participated with great enthusiasm to all the initiatives, meetings and decisions. Since a few years now, something has changed and I’m not convinced at all, so I’m starting to rethink about my decision and my adhesion. I realized that I have been struggling for more than 10 years in order to carry on the ideas and the values of the smallest wineries, I have stimulated discussions about the evolution of our territory, I have invested time for my Consortium because I think Gambellara has a great potential, but I realize now that this was not right path to follow. The conclusion is that probably being part of a Consortium that does not represent me and my winery is not the right choice.
That’s why vintage 2019 of El Gian and Col Moenia do not carry Gambellara DOC in the label. This was not a simple decision to take, but after a few precise questions it came naturally. Is the Consortium a mirror of my idea of a Gambellara wine? No. Does the Consortium help every single winery in the communication of their own identity? No. So why should I belong to it? Probably a few years ago I would have been more uncertain about this decision, but now I have no doubts and the path I want to follow is all about the desire of being able to catch the soul of my territory through my wines, I don’t want to be argumentative at all.
I want to promote a volcanic territory through its grapes and its authentic wines, no filters or veils are needed. For a real authenticity you need to let soil express its soul following Nature and the help of human beings. If the DOC doesn’t let Men and Nature to strictly work together, but wants to follow pre-set guidelines the result will be all the wines are more or less the same, so it’s right to follow different paths because the unique embrace between terroir and people is no longer possible.